They also served fresh herbal tea!
This day had some unexpected delays and surprises. Our first hope was to see the Temple Mount. We made our way through the narrow streets of the Old City. Frequently we would pass buildings with numbers on it like this. Anyone know what those mean?
Or this?
We went through the Palenstinian section, only to find out it was a Muslim holy day and the Temple Mount was closed. Rats. Their market was lively, though!
On our way to Stephen's Gate we met a nice Palestinian man who told us there would be exciting things happening at Damascus Gate at 12:30. Never wanting to miss a local celebration, to add to the richness of a city, we determined to get there, but we had some time, so we walked to Stephen's Gate.
Before we knew it, it was time to make our way to Damascus Gate. It felt like we walked a very long way, through throngs of people only to turn and retrace our steps. As we pushed through the crowded way, Geoff said, referencing a well-known scripture, "Who touched me?" I'm sure Jerusalem was this full in Jesus' day as well. It made it real. I could see how his apostles looked at him in disbelief.
Stopping for snacks.
We got to Damascus Gate only to find that nothing was going on. What the? We made our way back to Stephen's Gate having lost about an hour. Near Stephen's Gate is the site of the pool of Bethesda. There is a church at this location, and we stepped inside. A Christian tour group filled the church and were singing a song they all knew. It echoed off the walls as many had their arms raised and were swaying to the sweet melody. It was one of the most beautiful things I've ever heard. We recorded a short portion, but I wish I had recorded the whole thing to listen to over and over. Those voices sounded like they reached to heaven and mingled with angels. Unbelievable.
At each location we read the scripture passage associated with the event that took place there. As anyone who has been to Jerusalem knows, it is difficult to feel the peace and love of the Savior in those chaotic streets, with the tension that exists between people, and the assault on one's senses. There are centuries of worshippers who have built their churches, one on top of the other. To me, it is distracting and artificial, although I know those worshippers were expressing love and devotion in their own way. Reading relevant scriptures, sketching, and sitting apart were our attempts to find stillness.
We walked along the Via Dolorosa, picking and choosing what to see. We stopped at Pilate's palace, where it is believed Jesus was condemned to death. Below is an actual arch that dates to the time of Christ and is believed to have been part of Pilate's courtyard.
It was a beautiful and unusually quiet courtyard.
Someone we met told us we could have a quiet lunch at the Austrian Hostel, right at the corner of Lion's Gate (Stephen's Gate) Road and El Wad Road. This was a lovely hostel where we ate our soup and salads on the rooftop and rested our weary legs.
Suddenly, we heard a marching band in the distance, and it was getting closer. We looked at each other. What next?! Jerusalem is so full of new sounds and surprises! A marching band? We ran to the railing to look down onto the street to see what it was, and so did everyone else whose tranquil lunch had been interrupted. Turns out it was Mohammad's birthday, and a parade of at least 10 Muslim bands in sharp uniform passed through the narrow street from the direction of Damascus Gate on their way to the Temple Mount. That man who told us to go to Damascus Gate earlier in the day must have meant 2:30, not 12:30! This was a site to see, especially with our view. What a treat!
It was a serious celebration! They have a Mohammad birthday treat that is red and looks like twisted straws in a roundish, flatish knot. I wanted to try one after this parade, but I didn't see another vendor that day.
Next we went to the rooftop of the hospice, which had incredible views of the city. This Austrian hospice provided some unplanned pleasures!
On we walked, but decided to walk through the Christian section. It was relatively so calm!
After clocking 6 miles in the Old City (but feeling like 20), including 16 floors (thank you, iPhone tracker), we were beat. We made our way back to a restaurant a local told us made the best falafel in town, and it was right on our street. AMAZING! This place was so phenomenally good, we ate there at least once a day. It is called Hummus Ben Sira. Please go!
As I lay in bed trying to process the day, I recalled the congested street going to Damascus Gate. I had noticed a blind man making his way with a stick, a man sitting on the dirty ground with his daughter on his lap with her makeshift crutches asking for change, and another man asking for a little something. They were ignored, from what I could tell. Everyone was bustling about, going where they go and doing what they do, trying to make their way through the masses. I imagined Christ on that street. He would notice those people, and he would stop and heal them. Somehow, in all the bustle and chaos, he was present. He noticed individuals. I wished I could go back and acknowledge and show kindness to those people I saw.
I also felt that in my chaos, he stops and helps me. He is present and looking me in the eye. He offers healing. Do I receive it?
Geoff is really good at noticing individuals, and I began to observe his continual acts of kindness as we walked those narrow streets that Jesus walked. He would help a hunched over elderly woman with her bags up the crowded street, or a woman struggling to get her cart up a flight of stairs because of heart issues. Those people in need are all around us. Do we notice? Are we present? I could be better.
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