Jerusalem - Day 2

Near our Airbnb was Etz Cafe that served delicious breakfasts for all of us. We ate there every morning while in Jerusalem.

They also served fresh herbal tea!

This day had some unexpected delays and surprises. Our first hope was to see the Temple Mount. We made our way through the narrow streets of the Old City. Frequently we would pass buildings with numbers on it like this. Anyone know what those mean?

Or this?

We went through the Palenstinian section, only to find out it was a Muslim holy day and the Temple Mount was closed. Rats. Their market was lively, though!

On our way to Stephen's Gate we met a nice Palestinian man who told us there would be exciting things happening at Damascus Gate at 12:30. Never wanting to miss a local celebration, to add to the richness of a city, we determined to get there, but we had some time, so we walked to Stephen's Gate.

Before we knew it, it was time to make our way to Damascus Gate. It felt like we walked a very long way, through throngs of people only to turn and retrace our steps. As we pushed through the crowded way, Geoff said, referencing a well-known scripture, "Who touched me?" I'm sure Jerusalem was this full in Jesus' day as well. It made it real. I could see how his apostles looked at him in disbelief.

Stopping for snacks.

We got to Damascus Gate only to find that nothing was going on. What the? We made our way back to Stephen's Gate having lost about an hour. Near Stephen's Gate is the site of the pool of Bethesda. There is a church at this location, and we stepped inside. A Christian tour group filled the church and were singing a song they all knew. It echoed off the walls as many had their arms raised and were swaying to the sweet melody. It was one of the most beautiful things I've ever heard. We recorded a short portion, but I wish I had recorded the whole thing to listen to over and over. Those voices sounded like they reached to heaven and mingled with angels. Unbelievable.

At each location we read the scripture passage associated with the event that took place there. As anyone who has been to Jerusalem knows, it is difficult to feel the peace and love of the Savior in those chaotic streets, with the tension that exists between people, and the assault on one's senses. There are centuries of worshippers who have built their churches, one on top of the other. To me, it is distracting and artificial, although I know those worshippers were expressing love and devotion in their own way. Reading relevant scriptures, sketching, and sitting apart were our attempts to find stillness.

We walked along the Via Dolorosa, picking and choosing what to see. We stopped at Pilate's palace, where it is believed Jesus was condemned to death. Below is an actual arch that dates to the time of Christ and is believed to have been part of Pilate's courtyard. 

It was a beautiful and unusually quiet courtyard.

Someone we met told us we could have a quiet lunch at the Austrian Hostel, right at the corner of Lion's Gate (Stephen's Gate) Road and El Wad Road. This was a lovely hostel where we ate our soup and salads on the rooftop and rested our weary legs.

Suddenly, we heard a marching band in the distance, and it was getting closer. We looked at each other. What next?! Jerusalem is so full of new sounds and surprises! A marching band? We ran to the railing to look  down onto the street to see what it was, and so did everyone else whose tranquil lunch had been interrupted. Turns out it was Mohammad's birthday, and a parade of at least 10 Muslim bands in sharp uniform passed through the narrow street from the direction of Damascus Gate on their way to the Temple Mount. That man who told us to go to Damascus Gate earlier in the day must have meant 2:30, not 12:30! This was a site to see, especially with our view. What a treat!

It was a serious celebration! They have a Mohammad birthday treat that is red and looks like twisted straws in a roundish, flatish knot. I wanted to try one after this parade, but I didn't see another vendor that day.

Next we went to the rooftop of the hospice, which had incredible views of the city. This Austrian hospice provided some unplanned pleasures!

On we walked, but decided to walk through the Christian section. It was relatively so calm!

After clocking 6 miles in the Old City (but feeling like 20), including 16 floors (thank you, iPhone tracker), we were beat. We made our way back to a restaurant a local told us made the best falafel in town, and it was right on our street. AMAZING! This place was so phenomenally good, we ate there at least once a day. It is called Hummus Ben Sira. Please go!

As I lay in bed trying to process the day, I recalled the congested street going to Damascus Gate. I had noticed a blind man making his way with a stick, a man sitting on the dirty ground with his daughter on his lap with her makeshift crutches asking for change, and another man asking for a little something. They were ignored, from what I could tell. Everyone was bustling about, going where they go and doing what they do, trying to make their way through the masses. I imagined Christ on that street. He would notice those people, and he would stop and heal them. Somehow, in all the bustle and chaos, he was present. He noticed individuals. I wished I could go back and acknowledge and show kindness to those people I saw. 

I also felt that in my chaos, he stops and helps me. He is present and looking me in the eye. He offers healing. Do I receive it? 

Geoff is really good at noticing individuals, and I began to observe his continual acts of kindness as we walked those narrow streets that Jesus walked. He would help a hunched over elderly woman with her bags up the crowded street, or a woman struggling to get her cart up a flight of stairs because of heart issues. Those people in need are all around us. Do we notice? Are we present? I could be better.

Jerusalem (Half Day) - Day 1

After camel rides we drove to Jerusalem and dropped our bags off at our Airbnb located outside Jaffa Gate and headed in to the Old City to do first things first: shop at the markets. Adele, in particular, loves to shop, looking for little treasures for herself and others. She plans to collect things during our travels to sell at the Avenues Street Fair in Salt Lake City, farmer's markets, or other such places.  We had hoped to spend only one afternoon shopping, but turns out we went back to those crowded, and sometimes overwhelming, shops several times during our time in Jerusalem!

After a few hours of browsing, bartering and buying, we met a man who felt an immediate desire to take us to a special place and led us south on Cardo to a little set of stairs leading to a rooftop. The views were beautiful, and he took our picture. After ten minutes or so, he promptly led us to his brother's shop near the bottom of the stairs. Nice marketing. Those shopkeepers watch out for each other, I tell you!

On our way out he pointed out an old Roman arch still standing in a little restaurant. Given Jerusalem's many destructions, we gave it due respect.

We slept well that night!

Tel Aviv, a Bedouin Tent and a Camel Ride

We woke up to this view (although this photo was taken later in the day)...

Ahhh, the Mediterranean with its yellow light, fresh, salty smell, warm air and temperate water. We realized how tired we were and made a decision to stay and relax at the beach for the day. This meant giving up a day later in the trip, but the wide open views and the sunny, warm weather convinced us we could benefit from the day of rest.

We spent the afternoon with feet in the sand, collecting and trading shells, reading, and a few of us swam, despite the recorded public announcement loudly warning us, often, that swimming was prohibited because there wasn't a lifeguard on duty. Not a lot of people paid heed.

In the late afternoon we packed up our rental car and headed into the deserts to find our bedouin tent for the night. I'm not sure how I found this little place, and it took a little persistence to get to the right person to book it, but it was worth the effort. (david@desertcamping.net) There were definitely exclamations of, "Oh my awesomeness" all around. This was a highlight for our teenagers.

It was late when we arrived. Our host offered us some fresh herbal tea, from herbs growing right in the main tent, and sweetened it with date syrup. It was so amazingly delicious. We sat around talking with this young man (an employee) about his views on the conflict in Israel. He lives in a nearby Jewish settlement that was created to accept religious and non-religious people. He is non-religious, and he made a choice to not care about the conflict; he doesn't have control over the situation. It is political. As all young people serve two years in the Israeli army, he expressed frustration that the Palestinians don't have an army, so there isn't an army to fight with, therefore, Israel doesn't declare war. However, the Palestinians commit violent acts against innocent people all the time. He got a little worked up about that. We asked if it was safe to go to Bethlehem or Jericho. He thought Bethlehem would be okay because it is close to Jerusalem and it relies on tourism, but Jericho, maybe not.

The tent was remarkably clean and comfortable. No bugs. (That is important to me.) The bathroom was outside, porta-potty-like, but better, and had a fresh water sink. It was my kind of rustic!

I'll add here that it was our 19th wedding anniversary. We wouldn't have spent it any other way than a day at the beach, with our girls, and a bedouin tent! Life with Geoff is always exciting!

We woke up the next morning, and all of us, minus Tennie, went on a hike.

Just beyond these hills is the Dead Sea. The landscape was so desolate and beautiful.

Below is the tent we slept in.

This little bedouin tent outfit offered a dinner and breakfast, but it wouldn't have accommodated all of our dietary needs, so we didn't do it. It would have been awesome, I'm sure.

Up the road a bit was a place to ride camels. It was only a short ride, but it was a great experience through beautiful scenery. A camel standing up and laying down is quite a ride!

Our guide took a selfie. He was great.

Very fun. 

Paris - Day 7

A few days earlier we befriended a refugee family: a dad, mom and three girls. They didn't speak English, and we had a difficult time understanding where they originated, but they had at least been through Turkey and Italy. They lived in a makeshift tent somewhere, and their daughters were not in school. Despite our inability to communicate, we connected with this little family and wanted to help them. We bought them some groceries and invited them to join us for Thanksgiving dinner, but when we went to meet them, they weren't there.

Day 7 was a Sunday. After attending a local LDS church, we spoke with an LDS woman about resources for refugees. She didn't know of any, but in a closet at the back of the church they collected clothing for refugees and we were able to get some coats, scarves, hats and gloves for our friends. The little family was grateful for the warm clothing, and we said our goodbyes. It was our last day in Paris.

We've wondered a lot about this family since. What more could we have done? We wished we had more time to assist this family in getting their children in school, finding an apartment that is warm and safe, and assisting in paperwork, setting appointments, etc. Above all, letting them know they are not alone and someone cares about them. In Utah one can adopt, or mentor, a refugee family. When we get back to our regular lives, I want to do this. It may be a drop in a sea of refugee needs around the world, but it will make a difference for one family, and that may bless generations.

After church we met up with one of Geoff's YGL (Young Global Leader) friends and his wife and son for a long lunch. Andre works with the President, Emmanuel Macron. We learned about the French and their divisions during the last election, about what President Macron is trying to accomplish, and France's challenges. It was very interesting. These friends were wonderful, intelligent, kind and very fun lunch company. (Tennie wasn't feeling well and stayed home to rest.)

We walked through the historic district, Le Marais, which we'll definitely explore more next time, as we just got a glimpse of the beautiful architecture and charm!

We ended our day at the Picasso museum. Geoff and the girls explored the museum while I read in the lobby, as I don't like Picasso. (Am I even allowed to say that out loud?)

Here they are with Picasso faces...

The next day was a travel day. Packing up, trains, airports and planes.

Some of us had to get sleep whenever possible.

We arrived in Tel Aviv, went to dinner, got to our Marriott rooms on the beach and realized that Adele had the wrong, identical suitcase. Uh-oh. As we considered how to get Adele's back and return the one we had, Geoff checked his email and someone had reached out with our suitcase! Not only that, it happened to be a nice couple we had talked with on the plane and in the airport! They were at the airport trying to sort things out when we called. They swung by our hotel in a taxi, we switched our identical suitcases, and that was that. Easy peasy. We counted our blessings.